Slow Saturday morning, no big plans today. I've got a pot of risgrøt on the stove and the kitchen is filling with the sweet smell of a warm delicious breakfast slowly cooking. I'm sitting at the table drinking coffee and staring out across the fjord. It's 10:30 a.m. and the sun has been up for about half an hour, the "early morning" light low and pink, lighting up the clouds across the water in red and blue and deep purples. The rooftops are frosting with a sprinkling of powdered sugar snow. It's a fine Norwegian morning.